The number of individuals who know how to make a can of Coke is zero. The number of individual nations that could produce a can of Coke is zero. But yet it has become one of the largest soft drinks i the world. How did it all happen?
In 1863, when
Parisian chemist Angelo Mariani combined coca and wine and started selling it,
a butterfly did flap its wings. His Vin
Marian became extremely popular. He had inadvertantly created a new compound -Cocaethylene which works like cocaine, but with more euphoria.
Jules Verne, Alexander Dumas,
and Arthur Conan Doyle were among literary figures said to have used it, and
the chief rabbi of France said, "Praise
be to Mariani's wine!" Pope Leo XIII reportedly carried
a flask of it regularly and gave Mariani a medal.
Seeing this commercial success,
Dr. John Stith Pemberton in Atlanta -- himself a morphine addict following
an injury in the Civil War -- set out to make his own version. He called it
Pemberton's French Wine Coca and marketed it as a panacea. Among many fantastic
claims, he called it "a most wonderful invigorator
of sexual organs."
But as Pemberton's business
started to take off, a prohibition was passed in his county in Georgia (a local
one that predated the 18th Amendment by 34 years). Soon French Wine Coca was
illegal -- because of the alcohol, not the cocaine. Pemberton remained
a step ahead, though. He replaced the wine in the formula with (healthier?)
sugar syrup. His new product debuted in 1886: "Coca-Cola: The temperance
drink." After that Coca-Cola "quickly caught on as an 'intellectual beverage' among well-off
whites." But when the company started selling it in bottles in 1899,
minorities who couldn't get into the segregated soda fountains suddenly had
access to it.
Hale explains: "Anyone with a nickel, black or white, could now drink
the cocaine-infused beverage. Middle-class whites worried that soft drinks were
contributing to what they saw as exploding cocaine use among African-Americans.
Southern newspapers reported that "negro cocaine fiends" were raping
white women, the police powerless to stop them. By 1903, [then-manager of
Coca-Cola Asa Griggs] Candler had bowed to white fears (and a wave of
anti-narcotics legislation), removing the cocaine and adding more sugar and
caffeine."
Hale's account of the role of
racism and social injustice in Coca-Cola's removal of coca is corroborated by
the attitudes that the shaped subsequent U.S. cocaine regulation movement.
Cocaine wasn't even illegal until 1914 -- 11 years after Coca-Cola's change --
but a massive surge in cocaine use was
at its peak at the turn of the century. Recreational use increased five-fold in
a period of less than two decades. During that time, racially oriented
arguments about rape and other violence, and social effects more
so than physical health concerns, came to shape the discussion. The same
hypersexuality that was touted as a selling point during the short-lived glory
days of Vin Mariani was now a crux of cocaine's bigoted indictment.
U.S. State Department official
Dr. Hamilton Wright said in 1910,
"The use of cocaine by the negroes of the South is one of the most elusive
and troublesome questions which confront the enforcement of the law ... often
the direct incentive to the crime of rape by the negroes." Dr. Edward
Williams described in the Medical Standard in
1914, "The negro who has become a cocaine-doper is a constant menace to
his community. His whole nature is changed for the worse ... timid negroes develop
a degree of 'Dutch courage' which is sometimes almost incredible." Yes,
even the Dutch were not spared from the racism.
The Coca-Cola we know today still
contains coca -- but the ecgonine alkaloid is
removed from it. Perfecting that extraction took until 1929, so before that
there were still trace amounts of coca's psychoactive elements in Coca-Cola. As
Dominic Streatfield describes in Cocaine: An Unauthorized
Biography, the extraction is now done at a New
Jersey chemical processing facility by a company called Stepan. In 2003, Stepan
imported 175,000 kilograms of coca for Coca-Cola. That's enough to make more
than $200 million worth of cocaine. They refer to the coca leaf extract simply as
"Merchandise No. 5." The facility is guarded.
Vons grocery store in Los Angeles,
California sells 12 cans of Coca-Cola for $6.59 — 54 cents each. But the tool
chain that created this simple product is incomprehensibly complex. Each
can originated in a small town of 4,000 people on the Murray River in Western
Australia called Pinjarra. Pinjarra is the site of the world’s largest bauxite
mine. Bauxite is surface mined — basically scraped and dug from the top of the
ground. The bauxite is crushed and washed with hot sodium hydroxide, which
separates it into aluminum hydroxide and waste material called red mud. The
aluminum hydroxide is cooled, then heated to over a thousand degrees celsius in
a kiln, where it becomes aluminum oxide, or alumina. The alumina is dissolved
in a molten substance called cryolite, which is a rare mineral from Greenland,
and turned into pure aluminum using electricity in a process called
electrolysis. The pure aluminum sinks to the bottom of the molten cryolite, is
drained off and placed in a mold. It cools into the shape of a long cylindrical
bar. The bar is transported west again, to the Port of Bunbury, and loaded onto
a container ship bound for — in the case of Coke for sale in Los Angeles — Long
Beach. The bar is transported to Downey, California, where it is rolled
flat in a rolling mill, and turned into aluminum sheets. The sheets are punched
into circles and shaped into a cup by a mechanical process called drawing and
ironing — this not only makes the can but also thins the aluminum. The
transition from flat circle to something that resembles a can takes about a
fifth of a second. The outside of the can is decorated using a base layer of
urethane acrylate, then up to seven layers of colored acrylic paint and varnish
that is cured using ultra violet light, and the inside of the can is painted
too — with a complex chemical called a comestible polymeric coating that
prevents any of the aluminum getting into the soda. So far, this vast tool
chain has only produced an empty, open can with no lid. The next step is to
fill it.
Coca-Cola is made from a syrup
produced by the Coca-Cola Company of Atlanta. The main ingredient in the
formula used in the United States is a type of sugar substitute called
high-fructose corn syrup 55, so named because it is 55 per cent fructose or “fruit
sugar”, and 42 per cent glucose or “simple sugar” — the same ratio of fructose
to glucose as natural honey. HFCS is made by grinding wet corn until it becomes
cornstarch. The cornstarch is mixed with an enzyme secreted by a rod-shaped
bacterium called Bacillus and an enzyme secreted by a mold called Aspergillus.
This process creates the glucose. A third enzyme, also derived from bacteria,
is then used to turn some of the glucose into fructose.
The second ingredient, caramel
coloring, gives the drink its distinctive dark brown color. There are four
types of caramel coloring — Coca Cola uses type E150d, which is made by heating
sugars with sulfite and ammonia to create bitter brown liquid. The syrup’s
other principal ingredient is phosphoric acid, which adds acidity and is made
by diluting burnt phosphorus (made by heating phosphate rock in an arc-furnace)
and processing it to remove arsenic.
A much smaller proportion of
the syrup is flavors. These include vanilla, which is the fruit of a Mexican
orchid that has been dried and cured for around three months; cinnamon, the
inner bark of a Sri Lankan tree; coca-leaf which comes from South America and is
processed in a unique US government authorized factory in New Jersey to remove
its addictive stimulant cocaine; and kola nut, a red nut found on a a tree
which grows in the African Rain Forest (this may be the origin of Coca-Cola’s
distinctive red logo).
The final ingredient is
caffeine, a stimulating alkaloid that can be derived from the kola nut, coffee
beans and other sources. All these ingredients are
combined and boiled down to a concentrate, then transported from the Coca-Cola
Company factory in Atlanta to Downey where the concentrate is diluted with
water infused with carbon dioxide. Some of the carbon dioxide turns to gas in
the water, and these gas bubbles give it effervescence, also know as “fizz,”
after its sound. 12 ounces of this mixture is poured into the can.
The top of the can is then
added. This is carefully engineered: it is made from aluminum, but it has to be
thicker and stronger to withstand the pressure of the carbon dioxide gas, and
so it uses an alloy with more magnesium than the rest of the can. The lid is
punched and scored so that a tab opening, also made of aluminum, can be
installed. The finished lid is put on top of the filled can, and the edges of
the can are folded over it and welded shut. 12 of these cans are then packaged
into a painted paperboard box called a fridge pack, using a machine capable of
producing 300 such packs a minute.
The finished product is
transported by road to a distribution center, and then to my local Vons. The
tools, which span from bauxite bulldozers to refrigerators via urethane,
bacteria and cocaine, produces 70 million cans of Coca-Cola each day, one of
which can be purchased for about two quarters on most street corners, and each
of which contains far more than something to drink. Like every other tool, a
can of Coke is a product of our world entire and contains inventions that trace
all the way back to the origins of our species.
But the sad fact is that this famously American product is not
American at all. Modern tool chains are so long and complex that they bind us into one people
and one planet. They are not only chains of tools, they are also chains of
minds: local and foreign, ancient and modern, living and dead — the result of
disparate invention and intelligence distributed over time and space.
Coca-Cola
did not teach the world to sing, no matter what its commercials suggest, yet
every can of Coke contains humanity’s choir.
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