The recent events in Myanmar reminded me of my first visit to that country some twenty years ago.
In the
summer of 1989, I was asked to lead a team to develop an energy sector study for
Burma, or Myanmar, as its new rulers choose to call it. Burma had been closed to foreigners for a number of years as
the strongman, General Ne Win,
began developing a weird form of socialist government. The country was run by a
junta and was in a pitiable economic state. Not many in the Bank staff wanted to stake
their career on working on a country that seemed unlikely to attract any
international funding in the near
future. In the Bank, careers were built on the back of strong lending programs,
and Burma had few prospects. I put together a team of consultants and Bank
staff to visit Burma. As we met in Bangkok to prepare for the assignment, the
directions to visitors were as if preparing a visit to Alice’s Wonderland. We
were to bring in torches, insect repellents, 60-watt bulbs and a bottle of
Johnny Walker, (the latter was for the travel agent who would, in lieu of this
bottle, provide transportation to the hotel). Landing at Rangoon airport,
renamed Yangon by the junta, it was
like returning to a small provincial airport housed in sheds. We were met at
the airport by our travel agent and guide. The first shock came when we changed
dollars into the local currency. The official exchange rate was five kyats to
the dollar, whilst the real market value was closer to a hundred. We were soon
to discover the impact of this distorted exchange rate– a $2 chicken dinner
cost 200 kyats for the locals but we ended up paying $40 for it. We now
understood the importance of the two Johnny Walker bottles each of us had
brought in, as it was to pay for many of our meals in the city. Not only was
the currency ridiculously overpriced, it was divided into 90 cents, not 100
cents – the general felt that nine was his lucky number.
We were
housed in the Inya Lake Hotel, a nice
old villa surrounded by gardens and the Inya Lake. The hotel, which had seen
better days, was on the edge of the lake, but no window faced the lake since
the general lived on the other side of the lake and any windows overlooking his
residence was considered to be a security risk. The rooms were large but poorly
lit; now we understood the admonition to bring 60-watt bulbs if we wanted to
read or work at night. My room was infested with rats and some of our rooms
were flooded each time we took a bath.
We started
work the next day with a meeting with Mr. Kitatani, the Japanese ambassador, who was the doyen of the diplomatic
corps in Myanmar. He advised us to be careful in our discussions as this was a
very secretive government, and information would be hard to obtain. He told us
of the US seismic consulting
company staff who had had the temerity to criticize the work in the country and
hold an opinion regarding the geological reserves of the country, which was
less than the official figures. Their passports were not returned till they
agreed to change their findings and that too only on intervention from the Bank, which had employed them in the first place, and their own
embassy. It was not a very propitious note on which to begin the mission.
A state law
and order restoration committee, or SLORC, then ruled Myanmar, but the man pulling the strings was General Ne Win,
who had seized power in 1962. He had announced that henceforth Burma would
follow the “the Burmese Road to Socialism’. Unfortunately, this was to be a
steadily downhill path for the country. In 1966, nationalization policies were
extended right down to the retail shops. The retail price of rice had increased
nine times in the 1980’s. The maximum government salary was fixed at $15 per
month and most Burmese citizens spent almost two thirds of their salary on
food, barely eking out an existence. The black market had started to play a big
role in the market and most civil servants held two or three
jobs in order to subsist. Yet Burma had a literacy rate of over 80% with a
population of about 46 million. The largest banknotes were demonetized and
Burma’s economy slowly stagnated, leading to massive demonstrations in 1987-88.
Ne Win voluntarily retired in July 1988, but
organized a coup in September of that year to install the infamously named
SLORC. The government also announced that it was abandoning socialism in favor
of a capitalist economy in all but a few industries. In May 1990, confident
that it had full control, SLORC organized the country’s first free elections in
thirty years. Unfortunately for them, the National League for Democracy (NLD),
led by Aung San Suu Kyi, won 392 of the 485 contested seats. But in October
1990, the military raided the NLD offices, arrested key leaders and put San Suu
Kyi behind bars.
The Tatamdaw (armed forces) and
their political junta, SLORC, ruled Myanmar with an iron fist,
but the behind the scenes, real control remained in the hands of the postal
clerk turned dictator Ne Win,
commonly known as the “Old Man”. Ne Win was obsessed with astrology and
numerology to the extent that virtually every major tactical decision at the
national level was based on consultations with horoscopes and obscure number
charts. In the late 1980’s K45 and K90 notes were introduced since Ne Win
revered the number nine; both are factors of nine and the digits of both add up
to nine. Red and white billboards all over Yangon carried communist
style slogans. The only attraction in town was a floating restaurant, the
Karaweik. This was a concrete replica of an old Burmese floating palace built
in the lake. The Strand Hotel where George Orwell and Somerset Maugham had stayed, was
another attraction, though it was then rundown and seedy.
U Tin Tun was the undersecretary of energy, but was the de facto
Minister. He had been trained in the provincial services by the British and was
among a handful of civil servants still left in the
country that had any professional training in management. He was amiable and
agreed to meet with us and his own team, and to provide the information we
needed for our study. Periodically, he would get up from his seat and unravel
his lungi (the sarong worn by Burmese men) to air it, retie it and sit down to
continue the discussions without missing a beat, much to our consternation. As
we visited other ministries, it became apparent that this was a country in considerable
trouble. Electricity was provided only to the front row of houses on major
roads. Every civil servant was given a quota of gasoline, which he was expected
to sell in the black market to maintain his family. No dissent was tolerated.
The energy sector in Myanmar was at a critical juncture. Even accounting for the low per
capita income, modern energy consumption level was one of the lowest in the
world. There was significant unmet demand because of severe supply constraints.
Industrial production was severely handicapped by a shortage of energy. At the
same time, the existing sources of supply were deteriorating rapidly for a
number of reasons including the use of inadequate and obsolete technology, inappropriate policies and
lack of autonomy in sector management. Modern energy consumption had stagnated
over the last decade: petroleum products consumption had been squeezed down
from 7.6 mmb/yr in 1984 to 4.4 mmb/yr in 1989 and even the use of kerosene had
declined from 68.7 million gallons in 1975 to about 2 million gallons in 1990.
Electricity growth rate had decreased to only 3.5% per year from the earlier
rates of 8%, while the potential demand was far higher than present sales. The number of villages electrified rose from 709 in 1979 to only 751 in 1989.
Yet Myanmar had considerable indigenous sources of primary energy potential, which could in the long term meet these
demands. ....
The heart of the problem was the grossly overvalued exchange rate. The
Myanmar government had not changed the grossly overvalued exchange rate for
more than a decade, despite a widening gap between the official and parallel
market rate. In 1990, the parallel market rate was about 100 kyats to the dollar
while the official rate was only 5.88 kyats. Maintaining such an overvalued
exchange rate had led to inefficiencies in its use; adversely effecting
incentives to produce reduced government revenues, and resulted in scarcities.
Even assuming an exchange rate of 50 kyats /US $, official energy prices in Myanmar were extremely low with
consequent excess demand and lack of supply....
It was clear to our team that establishing a stable macroeconomic
environment had to be a top priority: prudent fiscal and monetary policies were
essential for restoring domestic price stability, establishing confidence in
the domestic currency and building trust in the government's commitment to the
reform program. Without building up this confidence, market liberalization and
measures to improve their operation would be undermined. Restructuring and
privatization of inefficient state enterprises could proceed more effectively
once the legal and institutional reforms were in place and the markets
functioning. But in Myanmar, partial liberalization of
markets had proceeded till now within an unstable and distorted macroeconomic
environment, and it was evident that full-scale reforms were essential to move
forward rapidly. The talents of Myanmar's people and the bounty of its natural
resources required both capital and technology to produce large income gains. Both could be attracted by the
right sets of policies. It was, however, entirely up to Myanmar authorities to
decide to adopt such policies so that a comprehensive reform process could
begin. This was the message we were prepared to give.
But as we prepared for our final meeting, I was mindful of what Kitatani-san had told us. All the team members were told
to have their passports in readiness and air ticket reservation confirmed. As
it was, the meeting proceeded smoothly and we were allowed to leave without any
fuss. We prepared a blueprint for developing the energy sector in Myanmar. The country had the resources, both physical and human, to
achieve it. And it could have become the foundation for its economic revival.
But that was not to be. And of course, the
team was never called back to Myanmar and the next time we visited Yangon as visitors, we were to see the roads barred with daily
strikes.
We left Myanmar with a profound sadness. Here was a country that had the
resources, both physical and of manpower, which with better management
and prudent investment could easily have become one of the tigers of the Asian
economy. But a group of ill trained colonels basically held the country to
ransom with undigested and dated socialist theology. If any country could
progress rapidly by the removal of 500 colonels, we felt it was Myanmar.
Myanmar, unfortunately, was a sad country that the world seemed to have
forgotten.
I went to Burma (Myanmar) for a week in 1986 as a tourist. I took time off in between missions to Nepal and Bangladesh. Also stayed at the Inya Lake in Rangoon. Went up country to Mandalay and Pagan. The latter was a surreal landscape full of stupas and pagodas. During the time I was there the government demonetized 8 and 15 chat notes with no exchange allowed. Just another sad chapter for really nice people - the common folk. Maybe there's some real hope now?
ReplyDeleteAn excellent column. I visited Burma/Myanmar in two successive years in the early/mid 1990's, also staying at Inya Lake Hotel. We were obliged the second time to change several hundred dollars into tourist currency that was generally unacceptable in ordinary shops. During the first visit (I was with two friends) we changed currency on the black market, getting a somewhat better rate than the official exchange, but still considerably under the real value.
ReplyDeleteWe were able to drive north a couple of hours, stopping at a WWII British cemetary and visiting some temples in general disrepair. On the second visit we flew to Mandalay (in receeding flood stage). While there we drove into the hills close to the "West Point" of Burma. Young officers to be would walk from their campus to the closest city in full dress uniform, complete with white gloves and briefcases (in lieu of weapons).
I remember much of what you described. A vivid memory entailed the forced labor of villagers, all ages and genders, constructing roads. I trust this will be featured in your next book on your travels and experiences.
Colleen